Our favourite spots in Dorset

Dorset will forever hold a special place in my heart after our first trip there in the summer of 2020. It was our first adventure out of lockdown, we lucked out with blue sky weather, and got engaged over fish and chips and champagne in Swanage. All in all it was a pretty great trip, helped by booking, by chance, the most gorgeous wildflower meadow campsite that has since become my epitome of hazy, wholesome summers to come.

It’s worth giving yourself at least a couple of days in Dorset, so you can take it leisurely, swim at every opportunity, and cover some miles on the South West Coast Path. Saying that, you always want a reason to go back somewhere, so don’t worry if you don’t get around as much of it as you’d like to. To give you a few starting points for your itinerary, read on for our favourite places we visited in Dorset. Of course, this is by no means an exhaustive list but a good few places to take in the beauty of the heritage coast.

Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove

Durdle Door is an obvious must-do. The dramatic rock formation was formed over 10,000 years ago when the sea pierced through the limestone and created a natural arch that juts out from the coastline. Admiring it from the shore is special, but swimming underneath it in the cool, clear waters is even more exhilarating. I’d put it as one of my top five UK swims! If you park at Lulworth Cove, you can walk to Durdle Door in about 15 minutes along the coast path. It’s a pretty steep ascent followed by a lot of steps down, but worth every huff and puff. On weekends and school holidays, the whole area will be teeming, so I’d suggest trying to save Durdle Door for a weekday if you can.

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The view back to Lulworth Cove from the coast path to Durdle Door.

Old Harry’s Rocks

Another of the impressive sights along the Jurassic Coast, and well worth a visit. Old Harry’s Rocks aren’t probably one for anyone scared of heights — I got pretty freaked near those open cliffs. Saying that, so long as you steer well clear of the edge, the towering rock formations are amazing to see. We did the National Trust Old Harry’s Rock walk, a circular 5.6km route that takes you round the tip of the Studland peninsula, and gives great views of Swanage too. If you’re staying at The Pig On The Beach (lucky you!), it’s right here so you can set off straight from your doorstep.

Swanage

Swanage is a bustling town on the Studland Peninsula, well worth stopping at for a stroll around, some fish and chips, and a drink in the sun somewhere. Some thorough Google research told us The Fish Plaice is the best fish and chip shop in town, and the ones we had didn’t disappoint. The beach isn’t the best in the area, but Prince Albert Gardens is a nice green space to sit on and enjoy your chips.

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Purbeck Cliffs Walk

The South West Coast Path will never not please me. The continuous well-maintained walking trail follows the coast all around the south west of England from Minehead to Poole. It makes for such lovely walking too, with the sea on your one side the whole way. We did the National Trust South Purbeck Cliffs Walk. It’s pushing 10km, but it’s a great circular route, with swimming opportunities and a very popular pub stop at Square and Compass — a must-visit on every local’s list.

Swimming at Winspit Quarry

One of the best swimming spots on the Purbeck Cliff Walk is at Winspit Quarry. You’ll find it just before you break off the SWCP and head inland, and you just need follow the steep steps down to water level. On a sunny day, find yourself a nice spot to bask on the rocks, jumping in and out of the sea to cool off. Next time, we’ll remember to pack refreshments and so we can linger for longer.

Shell Bay

At the very eastern tip of the Studland peninsula, you’ll find Shell Bay: a powdery sand beach backed by dunes and wild heathland that make up part of the sprawling Studland Nature Reserve. From Shell Bay you can look out over to Bournemouth on the other side of the bay, and in the other direction, you can walk along the sand to neighbouring Knoll Beach (don’t be alarmed by the designated naturist area that connects the two beaches!). We didn’t get to visit but Shell Bay Restaurant is said to serve excellent seafood.

Primrose Fields Campsite

We found the fantastic Primrose Fields campsite on Pitch Up. It’s a wildflower meadow near Wareham with no outlined pitches. You just park up and pitch up where you want. We stayed for two nights; the toilets (port-a-loos) were plentiful and always perfectly clean, and there are hot showers too. And separate washing up sinks — important. You can hire a fire pit and buy wood and kindling, and there’s a pub with a gorgeous garden right next door should you be wanting ice with your G&T.


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Alice Tate

Alice is a travel writer based in London. She loves exploring the UK, following walking routes to outdoors swims and pub stops. She writes for publications including CNTraveller, GraziaThe Telegraph, Refinery29, and Harper’s Bazaar

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Postcards from Dorset

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