A pocket guide to Cardigan, Wales
Small and charming, Cardigan is one of Wales’ oldest market towns, and one that’s retained a real sense of its heritage with its traditional shops, narrow streets, pastel facades and old pubs. Colourful bunting when we visited added to the nostalgic feel, as if it was gearing up for a lively village fête. Located on the River Teifi estuary at the base of Cardigan Bay, Cardigan is surrounded by beautiful scenery and great beaches, and in the town itself a 12th-century castle keeps lookout and is a proud cornerstone in Cardigan’s history..
Nestled among the butcher, the baker, the independent chemist and fishing shop are a handful of new and modern spots that celebrate artisan coffee, pizza, and local beers and spirits, and will help even the purest of urbanites feel catered for. Here’s where to get started in Cardigan.
Pizzatipi
Pizzatipi is my favourite spot in Cardigan. It’s an outdoor restaurant and courtyard on the riverside, from the team behind Fforest, and somewhere that really wouldn’t feel out of place in a trendy East London neighbourhood somewhere. Get a table next to the river, or under the canvas canopy, and enjoy wood-fired pizza, snacks and local drinks. Within the courtyard, you’ll find The Smwglin, the on-site pub serving local beers and ciders, cocktails and more. Book ahead. It’s a popular spot and not to be missed.
Crwst
For brunch, head to Crwst. The award-winning deli and bakery is great for a quick coffee or artisan pastry, but even better for a sit down brunch, with things like potato hash and smoky beans on toast on the menu. Big breakfast fans should order the Full Welsh. Again, it’s probably worth booking ahead. It’s popular.
Fforest
Fforest, a slow and wholesome brand, pretty much has the monopoly on accommodation options around Cardigan, and is the best place to stay for miles. If you’re reading this ahead of your trip, you should definitely check them out. They have three sites (and counting!) in and around Cardigan, including self-catering apartments in Cardigan itself, in the gorgeous granary mill buildings on the riverside. We stayed at Fforest Farm where accommodation options range from bell tents, to Crag Lofts (4-person cottages), and geo domes with Japanese-inspired sunken bathtubs, all spread over 200 acres, next to the Teifi marshes nature reserve. It’s a 6-minute drive from Cardigan, or in manageable walking distance too, and a great option for exploring the area. Don’t miss a session in the cedar sauna.
Bowen’s Chip Shop
When near the sea, fish and chips are obligatory. At least, they are my rule book. Bowen's Chip Shop is the best chippy in Cardigan. You’ll find it on your way out of the town, en route to Poppit Sands. Keep them boxed up and warm, and go and enjoy them on the beach.
Poppit Sands
15-minutes from Cardigan at the mouth of the River Teifi estuary, you’ll find Poppit Sands: a popular sandy beach backed by dunes. It can get a little windy sometimes being so open to the bay, but it’s a great swimming spot. There are nice walking routes from here, along the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path — Poppit Sands is actually the start/end point of the 186-mile coastal path.
Mwnt
I featured Mwnt in my post on the best beaches nearby, and though it’s a little out of Cardigan itself, it’s one not to miss while you’re here. It’s a beautiful sandy beach that gets a lot of sun, and is sheltered by the headland making for perfect swimming, sunbathing and sandcastle-building conditions. The waters are clear and when you scale to the top of the hill, keep your eyes peeled for dolphins which are often spotted offshore.
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